Can you either guide me or forward me detailed instructions on how to install a manual clutch for a 2000 Solara V6? My girls cars' down and I'm broke and DIY is the only way to go!How do you change the clutch on a 2000 Toyota Solara SE V6 Manual?http://www.car-stuff.com/mmparts/toyota-
Link for the manual, dont try it without the manual. If this car is a rear drive car it is going to be allot easier than a front drive car, and I think it is a front drive.How do you change the clutch on a 2000 Toyota Solara SE V6 Manual?yes get a manual
this car is FWD
you will have to
remove the axles
remove the transmission
change the clutchHow do you change the clutch on a 2000 Toyota Solara SE V6 Manual?first you gotta be good with cars somewhat. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and hit you with a shopping list first. You'll need a good tool set, lots of sockets, all metric, probably no std. since it's a yota.
2 jacks(1 to support engine, one to use to pull out trans, it's kinda heavy, it helps for breaks)
Pair of Jack stands, 4 is even better
Seal puller or pliers(change the axle seals, I didn't and had a bad leak so take my advice.)
New clutch kit(rockauto.com has awesome deals)
Trans fluid, probably dexron mercon III, usually is.
Drip pan.
Raise the front end of the car, support it along the frame rails, get it as high as you can, nothing sucks worse than not having enough room.
Pull off the front wheels. Unbolt the calipers and tie up to the top of the fenderwells, specifically the driver side since the trans will come out of that side. You can either remove the entire steering knuckle and shock/spring or leave it, it won't be in the way too much.
Under the hood, take out the batter(free up some room).
Anything you feel would get in your way, if you can get all the bolts out of the top of the transmission then great.
Feel around the transmission and disconnect any wiring. I believe there are 3. Vehicle speed sensor, reverse lights, and speedometer, could be only 2 if VSS and speedo are on the same, with new cars they usually are. Remove the nut that is on the front axle, usually a big 30+mm socket is required. A 3 jaw puller is a good tool to have so you can push out the splined axle from the hub. This will then allow you to yank out the CV axles. You'll probably have an intermediate shaft that idles on a bearing attached to the engine block. That should come off too. The idea is to get anything touching the transmission off of it...you knew that. You'll probably need to remove some of the inder fender lining, often there are acess panels, but who knows. I just assume you can figure that stuff out, if not then don't bother with this project. Anyway, back to the topic. At this point the only things attached to the transmission should be the clutch slave cylinder, shifting linkage(should be 2 or 3 cables coming from the firewall, pretty easy to remove), and of course the transmission mounts. one on top and one on the bottom/sideish area towards the front of the car. I can't be for sure but they stick out like a sore thumb so you can figure those out. Be sure to have the trans supported when you remove these, they should be the last thing removed as it will put stress on the input shaft of the transmission and could seriously screw it up. The last thing you want is to have to replace the trans. With that supported, remove the perimeter bolts that connect the transmission to the engine block, they go around in a circle. I would also like to add that you may have to remove the starter, never worked on a solara so I'm not positive, it varies. By now the trans should have a clear exit and should be supported by either you or the jack, I us a jack that is parallel with the engine and transmission so it can be pulled out with the aide of the wheels. It probably weighs about 80lb at least so be careful or get some help. Once it's out, remove the clutch, you'll have to hold the flywheel and use a big 1/2 ratchet because the motor will turn over. Remove the flywheel, have it turned, just something smart to do whenever you got it down this far. Finally it's a good idea to remove the pilot bearing in the end of the crank shaft. Don't bother getting a pulller. Instead, get a dowel of some sort that is roughly the same diameter as the hole in the bearing, it's gotta be somewhat close. Next get a bunch of paper towels and a small bucket/bowl of water, drench the paper towels and stuff as many as you can in the hole. Keep packing it with the dowel until it's so tight you have to tap them in, this will force the bearing out. Now lube up the new one slightly, line it up and tap it in by putting a socket or something over top of it. Put flywheel back on being careful not to get grease on it at all. Seriously, if you can don't even touch the surface. Torque to spec. You have to you may screw it up if you don't. Reciprocating things should always be torqued to spec. Second, put on the clutch with the clutch alignment tool that is usually supplied. YOu do this by sticking the splined tool into the clutch disk and then putting it on the flywheel(remember which side says this side up), with the tip of the alignment tool in the pilot bearing it should stay so you can put the pressure plate over the clutch. Tighten in a star pattern and torque to spec. Tighten evenly, not all the way at once. Do like increments of 25ft/lbs. with the trans out, remove the axle seals, just yank em out, smear a little lub on the new ones and tap em in with a pipe, don't hit them directly because you could damage them, they need to be hit in the center so a socket or pipe with an end of sorts needs to be used. I once used a chain link fence post with a hatchet to tap on in. Now just button everything back up. It's a lot easier than it looks and I have no doubt anyone that knows how to use tools could do this. The haynes manual is somewhat helpful but not very much. You just have to be able to look at things and remember how everything went back together but typically things like this are made to go back together one way and one way only. Hope that helped.
